2020 was a year of major upheaval in the fashion world, and many designers decided to change their approach.
Several brands started to move toward a direct-to-consumer model, moving away from traditional retail partnerships to gain more control over everything from production and pricing to delivery and sustainability.
One of the boldest moves came from designer Maggie Marilyn, who shifted her brand to a fully direct-to-consumer business. She sold her collections solely through her website and flagship store, allowing her to concentrate on slower, more considered fashion.
And she’s not alone. Designers like Mara Hoffman and Amy Smilovic have also reduced their reliance on wholesale retailers and put more money into their own digital platforms.
The industry has gone through a year of uncertainty, and one thing is clear: designers are not waiting for change anymore. They’re making it themselves, and in doing so, they’re rewriting the future of fashion.”
Consider the success of brands like Dôen, Glossier, or Entireworld—they don’t just own their sales; they’ve built an entire community around their message. Some designers, like Mara Hoffman, are going “mostly” DTC while keeping a select number of wholesale accounts, usually specialty stores and small boutiques.
Hoffman said she’s reduced her retailers from around 200 to just 10 and will invest more time and money in her e-commerce platform; in an open letter, she wrote, “Hopefully, we can build something that actually resembles the vision we are hoping for—for the future of this industry and planet as a whole.”
Tibi’s Amy Smilovic ended many of her wholesale partnerships this season as well and is exploring alternative retail models, including influencer partnerships designed to drive traffic back to tibi.com.